Classification: Costuming/Sash

Subdivision: Warrior’s Battle Sash

Source: IKV Crystal Dagger

379 zinc plated flat washers (1/4" inside diameter, approx. 2 ¾ lbs.)

705 Hog Rings (a type of upholstery staple, approx. 1 ¾ lbs.)

5 strips of gray vinyl 2 ½ yards long x 2 ½" wide

Pliers

Ball Peen Hammer

Small Locking Jaw Pliers suitable for holding a sewing needle

Leather needle for hand sewing of vinyl

Carpet or sail thread matched to vinyl

12" x 12" board

4 nails

Place the 4 nails on the board in a square 4 7/8" per side, with the top of the square 2" from the top of the board. This will make the assembly of the washers easier.

The hog rings look like staples. They are actually meant to be bent in a triangular shape (hence the name). We’ll use them as staples, and will call them such to avoid confusion. They are moderately stiff and can be difficult to crimp shut. Partially crimping the staples before hooking them into the washers will make assembly much easier.

Make sure that the shiny, slightly rounded side of the washer faces outward- that is, the opening of the staple is on the flat side of the washers. This will make the sash look much nicer.

When crimping the staples shut, make sure that the ends of the staples touch or are close to touching. If the gap is too large, the washers can, and will pop out.

Using locking pliers to push or pull the needle when hand sewing the vinyl strips together will save a great deal of wear and tear on your fingers. Trust us on this. Pliers like a surgeon’s clamps are available in sewing or craft stores for just this purpose.

The standard size for the sash is 30 washers long from shoulder to waist. This will fit most people. Very small persons may have to use fewer rows, while persons over 6 ft. or of larger girth may need to use more.

Take two washers and join them with a staple. Squeeze the ends of the staple down with pliers. Join another washer to one of the first two with another staple. Make a row 6 washers long (see example 1). Repeat for several more rows (we recommend making 10 rows and assembling the sash in sections of 60 washers for ease of counting).

Place one row on the board with the staple openings facing you. Hook one washer over each nail at the top of the board. You will now join the rows. Techniques vary here. Cmdr. qor crimps one staple on each washer on the board (see example 2), then places each washer of the next row over the open end of the staple for that column, closing the staple as you join them (see example 3). Lt. Qob prefers to join the leftmost washer of the new row to the leftmost of the last row on the board, crimp a staple to the second washer on the new row, crimp the other end of that to the second washer on the last row of the board, etc. Either system works, just experiment and find your preference.

In this manner, make 4 sections of 60 washers 6 wide by 10 long. Make 2 sections 6 wide by 5 long. Join 2 long and 1 short section to make two 6 x 25 pieces.

The shoulder needs to be wedge shaped to hang properly. Join the shoulder as follows: Lay the sash sections end to end. Join corner washer to its mate with a staple. Join 2 staples together, then link the joined staples to the second column of washers (see example 4). Repeat for columns 3 and 4. Join 3 staples together, and link the ends to the washers of column 5, and do the same for column 6. Column 6 will be the furthest from your neck when you wear the sash.

Drape the sash over your shoulder and determine how much longer it has to be. Most people will probably make the sash the full 30 rows long. Remember, if you’re going to wear your sash over your battle armor, it needs to be longer than if you’re wearing it over a t-shirt! Add the same number of rows to the front and back to attain your desired length.

The bottom is a bit tricky. The bottom also has to be wedge shaped for proper draping. Study example 5 closely before starting assembly. The washers at the sides of example 5 are the last 2 rows on your sash. Extra washers are added to each column to keep the shape. Join the 2 washers of column 1 with a staple. Be sure you have the correct column!! It is very easy to get confused! Remember you’re working from the back side, and column 1 will be the innermost column. Add one washer into column 2. Link that washer to the staple, and join the column 1 washers as in the diagram. Add 3 washers to column 3, 4 washers to column 4, 5 washers to column 5, and 6 washers to column 6. Be sure to link all the washers as shown on the diagram. This will make the sash fold properly so that it does not bag up or gap open at your waist.

You may need to pound down the ends of the staples with a ball peen hammer to help avoid snagging them on your clothing. We do not recommend wearing this sash over expensive clothes, since it WILL snag on them. A little common sense about what you wear can avoid a lot of cursing!

Now you can start putting the vinyl on your sash. Some tips to remember: The weave is an over and under pattern and you want to alternate the weave on adjacent columns (see example 6). You also want the seam where the strips are joined to be at the lower back of the sash. The vinyl strip is folded into thirds when woven through the links; the links will keep it from coming open. Only where the short ends of the strip meet at the back will the strip be sewn.

Take a strip, and put a pin about 4" from the center of the strip. This will mark the shoulder. The longer end will be woven across the front of the sash (Remember that the sash is worn across the right shoulder!). Fold the end of the strip into thirds and begin the weave. You will have to pull a little through, fold the next section, pull a little more through, etc. After awhile you will get the hang of it and it will become second nature. Weave over and under the links as in example 6. The two ends of your strip should meet somewhere around your left kidney at the back of the sash. The weave should meet so that the ends of the strip can be pushed through the same gap to the inside of the sash. One end of the strip should be a couple of inches longer than the other. Sew the strip together as close to the sash as possible. Trim so that one end is longer than the other, fold the long end over the shorter one, and sew that to the inside of the sash. You should stitch to the inside of the sash so that the thread can’t be seen through the outside (see example 8). Repeat with the other strips.

Congratulations! You are now the proud owner of a true warrior’s Battle Sash! The enemy will fall to their knees when they see you come, and other Klingons will stand in awe of your attire. DaHjaj SuvwI’ SoH! Today you are a warrior!